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Updated: 7 weeks 14 min ago

Mongolian Road Trippin’ With Dannijo

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 21:30

“We’re very hands-on,” declared Jodie Snyder Morel and Danielle Snyder, the sisters behind boho jewelry line Dannijo, at their Spring ’15 presentation yesterday. The duo, known for their silver and brass hardware-heavy statement jewelry, turned to the theme of a Mongolian road trip for their latest foray into bold “gypset and wanderlust” baubles. The idea came from photographer friend Lyle Owerko’s recent voyage to the central Asian nation. That was the jumping-off point for oxidized brass and silver pendants, layered chains, and studded necklaces. The wares were on view in a fully transformed West Side gallery space, filled with sheep and a tent.

Owerko’s images and adventures were also the inspiration for the sisters’ first shoes and bags, which also made their debut at yesterday’s presentation. The new range includes such haute bohemian offerings as a large hobo printed with a Mongolian mountain landscape that was snapped by their pal; silver-pendant-detailed leather flats; and a pair of towering black strappy sandals that Snyder wore. The sisters say they’re excited about their growing line—and the story they’re telling with it. “We want [this road trip concept] to be an extension of things that we’ll do throughout the year,” said Snyder Morel. “Mongolia was the first place we started, but we definitely want to do a road trip that incorporates other parts of the world.” You can bet we’ll be tagging along for the ride. — Ashley Simpson

Photo: Joe Schildhorn /BFAnyc.com

Joan Rivers, Queen of Red-Carpet Fashion Commentary, Dies at Age 81

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 21:00

“I succeeded by saying what everyone else was thinking,” Joan Rivers, who died today in Manhattan at age 81, once said. Perhaps no one can sum up the wildly funny comedian and red-carpet fashion critic better than Rivers herself. She made a career on her unfiltered, outspoken approach to pretty much everything from Botox to Bill Clinton, and she made the world laugh as she did it. She was not only a trailblazer in the comedy world as one of the first major female stand-up stars, rising to fame through regular appearances on The Tonight Show with Johnny Carson, but also an innovator in the fashion sphere. She popped up at major awards shows in the ’90s, asking celebrities about their outfits (and responding with unabashed, often controversial feedback)—and red-carpet fashion commentary was born. She became a permanent fixture on the red carpets and remained so all the way through last week, when she reported on the VMAs as part of her E! series Fashion Police.

Rivers, however, was never a fan of being called a pioneer. “It upsets me to say I’m a pioneer, because I’m so current now,” she once said in an interview. “I don’t like when the ladies come up and say, ‘Oh, you broke barriers for women.’ I’m still breaking barriers…and I can still take you, sweetheart, with both hands tied behind my back. You asked me am I proud to be a pioneer? I’m not a pioneer. I’m still in the trenches; I’m still breaking ground.” And she didn’t stop until the very end. — Kristin Tice Studeman

Photo: John Mahler / Getty Images

How Is the World’s Most Luxurious Vodka Made?

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 20:30

Before you find out how it’s made, you might ask yourself, What exactly is luxury vodka? In this case, it’s Absolut Elyx—cohost of last night’s Style.com NYFW kickoff party. When you’re a luxury vodka brand that prides itself on integrity, you don’t just make any old video to show the process, you hire award-winning directors like Luke Seomore and Joseph Bull, a celebrated director of photography (Jaime Feliu Torres, for instance), and you have it scored by someone as brilliant as the composer Eaux. That’s exactly what Absolut did. The result is a surprisingly beautiful and fascinating look at the craft and history of Elyx.

Famously Silent Photography Legend Bill Cunningham Opens Up to Fern Mallis

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 20:29

Yesterday evening at Manhattan’s 92nd Street Y, industry friends and fans gathered for the latest installment of Fashion Icons with Fern Mallis: a rare, intimate chat between Mallis and The New York Times’ venerated photographer Bill Cunningham. Mallis was able to convince the famously shy 85-year-old doyen of street-style photography to discuss the narrative arc of his personal and professional life since his birth in Boston in 1929 to his near 35-year career as a regular contributor to the pages of the Times.

All it took was a spilled vodka at the CFDA Fashion Awards on June 2, when Cunningham unwittingly overturned the drink onto Mallis’ newly bought Indian sari, and the two were in business. The crowd at the Y—which included designers Thom Browne, Carolina Herrera, and Norma Kamali—heard the two cover everything from Cunningham’s astrological sign (he’s a Pisces) and his four-month stint attempting to study at Harvard to working at department store Bonwit Teller and his love for Isabella Stewart Gardner and her museum (“Every single inch is beauty!”). He also spoke of taking up with Nona Parks and Sophie Shonnard at Chez Ninon and his foray into millinery with his line William J. Furthermore, the oft reticent Cunningham (he rarely gives interviews) discussed living in Carnegie Hall next to the Actors Studio; his distaste for money, celebrity, and the “traps of the rich”; his penchant for simplicity—an important value he feels is missing in society today—and his deep admiration for those straight-talking powerful forces who shaped a bygone fashion era: Diana Vreeland, Virginia Pope, Hannah Troy, and Adele Simpson.

It was a lesson in fashion history that was brimming with insights, anecdotes, and cautionary tales. “I think the fashion world has got to come to grips with reality…if you don’t dress the inside of your head like you’ve been dressing the outside of your body, you’re in trouble. The future belongs to this generation and high-tech electronics is it,” he offered, adding, “What we should focus on in America at this moment are people who do things, like doctors and scientists…the world needs desperately all of this stuff.”

However self-deprecating or modest Cunningham was about his own contributions or legacy, it is clear that the lensman, with all of his wit, charm, and imagination, is a poet of the highest order. His artistry over the years has belied the claim that the fashion industry, as some believe, now runs on fluff, fame, and a frivolous selfie culture—a radical departure from what he considered the most exciting fashion show of his life: the 1973 triumph of ready-to-wear over haute couture at Marie-Hélène de Rothschild’s infamous “Battle of Versailles.” It was a cultural standoff with enormous implications, whereby Oscar de la Renta, Bill Blass, Halston, Anne Klein, and Stephen Burrows took on the French and broke down mass perceptions of American society. “This was the real America,” he told the audience, later leaving the stage just as he had come on it—taking pictures. “It was the greatest night I’ve ever seen.” — Elizabeth L. Peng

Photo: Joyce Culver

Dee Ocleppo Takes a Trip to the Caribbean

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 18:53

When a designer admits that she creates things that she wants to wear, it lends a certain authenticity to the brand. And if your name is Dee Hilfiger, chances are lots of other women will want to wear what you’re wearing as well. “I have the Balenciaga, I have the Hermès,” she told us. “But the thing is, everyone has those.”

Now in its second season, Hilfiger’s Dee Ocleppo handbag collection continues to be inspired by travel. “Last season was very ‘Swiss chalet’ with the furs,” she explained. “But for spring, everyone wants something fun, with color.” That’s why Spring ’15 is a nod to Caribbean travel, with woven details, punchy hues, and plenty of fringe. There were lots of soft goat leathers, beautiful metal finishes, and what is becoming her signature—durable PVC details.

What caught our eye were the practical details. A leather phone case is equipped with a removable shoulder chain (“When I’m running through the airport with my bags, I hate having to hold my phone”). Other bags come with removable covers and zip-in goat-leather pouches. Thanks to its massive size and fringe details, the Nassau beach bag might be a bit over the top—imagine dragging leather fringe through the sand. But you can’t blame Hilfiger for taking risks. When your husband is Tommy Hilfiger, you’ve got a lot to prove. And if stores like Saks Fifth Avenue start selling your line on the floor next to Valentino, you’re clearly doing something right. — Todd Plummer

The Next Big Thing: Frame Denim, Spring ’15

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 18:33

Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks off, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

Label: Frame Denim, designed by Nico Peyrache, Jens Grede, and Erik Torstensson

Need to know: “The thing is to make things not too complicated,” explained Frame Denim design director Peyrache. “When [the Frame woman] gets dress in the morning, I don’t want her to have to think too much.” Rather, she’ll just grab a crème-colored feather-light cashmere sweater and a champagne linen tee and slide into the two-year-old, no-longer-just-denim brand’s white Le Grand Garçon jean—a new, true boyfriend-style fit for Spring ’15—and she’ll be ready to go. This season’s clean, easy collection is made up almost entirely of monochromatic separates: ’70s-style oversize white denim trousers, worn leather pencil skirts, lots of ultra-soft linen tops, and the tried-and-true Skinny (a style the brand’s many supe fans, including Karlie Kloss, Lara Stone, and Daria Werbowy, are picking up). It’s a continuation of the growing stable of must-have basics Frame has been developing since the Saturday Group founders launched the denim capsule in 2012. The guys say Spring ’15 is all about presenting these precise essentials in a calm color palette, beginning with whites. “I’m French,” said Peyrache. “So I’m very Saint-Tropez. [The motto is] always make things simpler.”

They say: “The idea is always in the ’70s,” revealed Peyrache. “All those guys were born in 1978 except for me—I’m too old! But the idea is also to look to a little bit of the past, like Jane Birkin or Brigitte Bardot. They’re always very chic.”

Where to find it: Net-a-Porter, Intermix, Barneys New York, Nordstrom, Shopbop, Ron Herman, Selfridges, Colette, Lane Crawford, and more. — Ashley Simpson ​

Photo: Courtesy Photo

The Next Big Thing: Dominic Louis

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 16:18

Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks off, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

Label: Dominic Louis

Need to know: Louis Mairone trained as a menswear designer at FIT, amassing an impressive list of famous male clients including Trent Reznor and Lenny Kravitz. But for the past three seasons, Mairone has focused his efforts entirely on womenswear (though there are winks to his past in the traditionally masculine materials he uses, such as herringbone and worn leather). While Fall’s look was long, lean, and undoubtedly influenced by the sharp white shirts and banker-inspired trousers of the 1990s, Spring 2015 is about vulnerability. “Fashion can be a beautiful mask that we wear as humans, and in my work as a designer I come at it from a slightly philosophical angle,” he says. “This season, the Dominic Louis woman is sharing some secrets about her past that have shaped her and made her into the strong, sexy, and confident person she is now.” Mairone also hints that a “secret leather fetish” comes into play. Good thing these pieces will hit the sales floor just in time for Fifty Shades of Grey‘s February 2015 release.

Find him on: Twitter (@DOMINIC_LOUIS) and Instagram (@dominic_louis) —Lauren Sherman

How Couture Council Award Winner Carolina Herrera Saved Seth Meyers’ Wedding

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 15:28

How do you get Seth Meyers to introduce you at the FIT Couture Council luncheon? If you’re Carolina Herrera, you design his wife’s wedding dress. Meyers, who launched into his speech by announcing he cleared it with his better half first, regaled the crowd, which included Oscar de la Renta, Renée Zellweger, and Martha Stewart, with the story of his wedding day. On the morning of, Meyers woke to discover that his wife-to-be was in the ER with food poisoning. “She rallied,” he said, “but I admit as a groom I was terrified, because she did not look good. And I should say I looked great. Which is why you can understand my relief when she walked out in her Herrera dress, and looked more beautiful than I’ve ever seen her. The Herrera dress was transformative, not just in the way it made her look, but in the way it made her feel. At its best, fashion can make us feel better than we were meant to feel. I’m not saying Mrs. Herrera saved our wedding, but I am saying we’re naming our first child Carolina. Girl or boy.” Meyers was a tough act to follow, and Herrera said as much. She accepted the Couture Council’s Artistry of Fashion Award, and headed back to the studio. She had a fashion show on Monday to prepare for.

—Nicole Phelps Photo: Joe Schildhorn/BFAnyc.com

The Next Big Thing: Simon Miller

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 14:21

Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks off, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.

Label: Simon Miller

Need to know: Jake Sargent and Daniel Corrigan took the reins at Simon Miller in 2011, and in three short years they’ve managed to transform the Los Angeles-based outfit from a respectable denim line for guys to a full-fledged brand with pieces for both sexes. (The women’s denim range, which features skinny and straight styles in the label’s signature washes, makes its retail debut at Barneys this fall, while the duo’s first women’s ready-to-wear collection will be shown today at their Spring 2015 presentation.) Unsurprisingly, their efforts—which include heralding in the perfectly bleached dad jean—have not gone unnoticed: The team is currently vying for top prize as finalists in the 2014 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.

For their first major women’s line, Sargent and Corrigan’s goal was to create a range of relaxed styles that speak to the brand’s indigo roots. “We wanted to go deep in exploring the natural medium alongside our advanced denim wash treatments, which have been a large part of our men’s success,” says Corrigan. Adds Sargent, “The women’s market allows us to explore designs and ideas that go beyond the limits of menswear. It’s been exciting to see it unfold.”

Follow them on: Instagram (@simonmillerusa) —Lauren Sherman

EXCLUSIVE: For His Second Season at Hugo Boss, Jason Wu Goes Into the Woods

Thu, 09/04/2014 - 13:56

Could Jason Wu be the hardest-working young man in fashion? When the designer rang me late yesterday evening, he was still in his studio, working away on his eponymous line. “And I haven’t even gone to my night job yet!” he laughed when I noted the time. His night job is, of course, designing for Hugo Boss, a brand for which he will present his second collection as creative director next week. Ahead of his highly anticipated debut last season, Wu teamed up with his longtime collaborators Inez & Vinoodh to create This Is Boss, a film starring Edie Campbell that helped to convey his focused vision for the house. A fusion of nature and architecture was the inspiration for both the Fall ’14 film and collection, and this concept, Wu asserted, will spill over into Spring. “We’ve established a base. We’ve established a look. And now it’s about being very consistent, being very rigorous about our vision of Boss womenswear,” he said. “I’m very excited to tell the next chapter in the story.”

To help him tell the next chapter of his Hugo Boss tale, Wu enlisted video artist Marco Brambilla to create a short starring ethereal Finnish model Suvi Koponen. “Marco doesn’t often shoot models this way, and for the second This Is Boss, I wanted to collaborate with someone who works differently but still relates back to our world.” As for his choice to feature Koponen, Wu offered, “The film is very dramatic—there’s an orchestra in the background, but she looks as though she’s birthed from nature.”

Shot in the woods an hour outside Toronto, the short gives nature a high-tech boost via trees banded with LED lights. Koponen appears otherworldly as she waltzes through Boss’ futuristic forest in a paneled white gown that is at once strict, geometric, and featherlight. The film (and a first look at the Spring ’15 collection) premieres exclusively here.

After Wu gave me the rundown on This Is Boss: The Sequel (and according to the designer, there will be many more in seasons to come, each offering a new take on his vision), I couldn’t help but ask for a few hints about the sophomore lineup, which will hit the runway on September 10. “It’s going to be a very different take on architecture vs. nature,” he said. “And you can expect a great front row!” Considering last season’s showgoers included Reese Witherspoon, Gerard Butler, Diane Kruger, and Gwyneth Paltrow, I don’t doubt it. —Katharine K. Zarrella

Bull’s-Eye! Kate Foley Teams Up With Time’s Arrow

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 22:49

Considering her long-since-cemented status as a New York street-style luminary, it’s a wonder that Kate Foley is just now debuting the first collaboration that bears her name. But like all good things, her Fall capsule collection for Time’s Arrow came about organically: Foley encountered industry vet Christine Park’s handbag line on the eve of its launch last year as a buyer for Opening Ceremony, and fell hard. “I’d been looking for ages and ages for bags that weren’t attached to a huge brand and that were at an accessible price point,” said Foley. “And then I came upon Time’s Arrow, and I was like, ‘Oh, my God, this is crazy-amazing. How have I found this brand that’s elegant, well-made, and really, really reasonably priced?’”

Foley and Park hit it off, and soon the prospect of a collaboration was on the table. “I was thinking a video or a photo shoot,” Park recalled, “and she came back to us and said, ‘I want to do bags!’” It was a risk the brand was willing to take for one simple reason. “Kate is very much the Time’s Arrow girl. She’s very classic, but there’s a lot of spontaneity in her style.”

Foley took her aesthetic cues for the five styles from Costa Careyes, a Mexican coastal paradise that’s evoked with jewel-toned leathers in unlikely combinations. The purses are lined in a custom fabric, inspired by 20th-century design giant Josef Frank’s fanciful botanical prints—to say nothing of Time’s Arrow’s meticulously thought-out interiors. Equal parts playful and practical, they may even garner you some street-style stardom of your own.

Time’s Arrow x Kate Foley, $225 to $750. Available online exclusively at shopbop.com and in select boutiques. —Kristin Anderson

Photos: Courtesy Photoso

Fashion Week Gets In Shape: Fitness Takes Over NYFW

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 22:15

Around 10 a.m. Wednesday morning, a crowd of editors from top fashion publications and stylists gathered on West 37th Street to catch one of the very first shows of New York fashion week. More than a few guests were clad in sneakers and running tights, which was fitting, since they were on hand for activewear label Athleta’s first-ever show.

When the Gap-owned brand first made the announcement this summer that it was going to be added to the NYFW roster, fashion insiders immediately asked: Why? With a fashion month calendar that’s already way too packed with runway shows, presentations, and late-night fetes, do we need to spend our time going to see compression tights and spandex tanks paraded on the runway?

Maybe we do. We have, after all, been borrowing from activewear and putting it on the runways for a while now. So maybe it’s time to let the experts show us how it’s done.

“A lot of designers have been interested in fitness-inspired clothing lately, but their pieces don’t actually have the technicality that our products do,” Athleta president and general manager Nancy Green told Style.com before the high-energy show, which was styled by Marie Claire‘s Zanna Roberts Rassi and Luam Keflezgy, choreographer to the likes of Beyoncé and Britney Spears. “We deliberately wanted to show at NYFW to make sure everyone knows that Athleta is not just a performance brand but also a fashion brand. Women are choosing to wear clothes differently, and they want something that takes them from a run, to the office, to cocktails, and to the grocery. They don’t want to wear five different outfits a day.” (An ironic statement, given that many editors and bloggers are known to change outfits multiple times per day during the fashion month slog.)

The 20-minute performance today, divided into eight scenes, was meant to showcase the versatility of the clothes. The takeaway from editors, however, was slightly different. “Why can’t everyone do shows like that? Fashion week would be so much more fun,” said one editor as she made her way out afterward.

Athleta isn’t the only athletic label tapping into the buzz surrounding fashion week this season. Adidas hosted a tweet-powered catwalk show today for its teen label, NEO. Through the @adidasNEOLabel Twitter handle, users voted on hair, makeup, and styling looks for the show.

And although it’s not doing a show or presentation this week (it instead invited editors to see its new collection in NYC in late July), Under Armour announced on the eve of NYFW that supermodel Gisele Bündchen is the newest addition to its I Will What I Want campaign, joining sports stars like skier Lindsey Vonn and ballerina Misty Copeland. The new campaign with Bündchen, who has also starred in ads for Chanel No. 5 and Givenchy, conveniently debuts tomorrow, coinciding with the first official day of NYFW. I wouldn’t be a bit surprised to see the activewear giant presenting at fashion week by next season.

The fitness trend’s presence isn’t limited to the runways this fashion week. Lululemon, in partnership with fitness and wellness site Bonberi, is hosting a fashion week detox event next week that will include guided meditation sessions, a Lululemon pop-up shop, and a “nourishing Bonberi-curated breakfast,” according to the invite. And should you have time in between dashing to Lincoln Center, Milk Studios, and the office, workout centers like Cyc, a downtown Spin studio, are offering complimentary sweat sessions to fashion insiders.

The question remains: Just how fit does fashion want to be? Of course, health and wellness is essential to our well-being, especially in an industry where the body is the vehicle that drives us, so it’s cool that we have evolved to the point where we can see an activewear show during NYFW. However, what we are really here for is the beauty of fashion. What we love about fashion isn’t necessarily the function. We certainly appreciate function (because who wants to run around the city in heels that you can barely walk in), but clothes that are built primarily with activity in mind might be missing too much—the magic that designers like Marc Jacobs, Karl Lagerfeld, or Raf Simons create on the runways just isn’t there. It’s a different kind of #CrushOfAdrenaline than the jolt Athleta gave its crowd this morning.

—Kristin Tice Studeman

EXCLUSIVE: Opening Ceremony and Intel Debuts the Sharpest Wearable Tech Yet

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 22:00

As announced in January, Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have partnered with Intel to create a first-of-its-kind women’s smart accessory. One part jewelry, one part wearable tech, MICA (short for My Intelligent Communication Accessory) will make its debut at the label’s show this Sunday, and features semiprecious jewels and snakeskin on one side and a large, curved touchscreen display on the other. And it’s more than just a trussed-up fit band. Aysegul Ildeniz, vice president and general manager for Business Development and Strategy, New Devices Group at Intel, promises that “it will allow you to communicate with your friends.” Details are still vague, but Leon says, “We surveyed key people and asked them what they would want out of a device like this.” The bracelet will be available in two styles at select Opening Ceremony and Barneys stores in December, and will retail for a to-be-determined price less than $1,000. Style.com has an exclusive first look at them here in this Collier Schorr-lensed image of Kirsten Owen and Ajak Deng. —Nicole Phelps

Photo: Collier Schorr

10 NYFW Events That Combine Art and Fashion

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 21:11

Fashion and art have a lot in common: They’re both industries centered around aesthetics, their markets consist of aspirational luxury objects, and they’re both creative fields. So of course it makes perfect sense that this New York fashion week there will be several occasions where the two worlds will meet. Here are some of the high-art-meets-high-fashion events to look forward to this week:

Sterling Ruby and Raf Simons at Dover Street Market
Throughout the week, British concept retailer Dover Street Market will host a number of fashion-meets-art happenings at its New York location, including an area dedicated to the go-to source for design inspiration, Idea Books, and the unveiling of a sculpture that fuses the work of Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby, who also collaborated on Simons’ Fall 2014 menswear collection.

Whit Kicks Off With a Pop-Up
On September 3, Whit will kick off a fashion week pop-up store-cum-gallery—presented by Cointreau and that is open to the public—by debuting its Spring 2015 collection at the Chelsea gallery Onishi Project. Works by artists Mary Matson, Gordon Holden, Amanda Jasnowski, and Jill Galarneau will also be on view at the space, which will close with an invite-only celebratory dinner on September 7.

The Last Days of Folly
Later that day, artist Rachel Feinstein, who designed the whimsical set for Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2012 show, is ending her Madison Square Park installation Folly with another fashion week kickoff: a festival called The Last Days of Folly. Feinstein tapped several of her fashion designer friends, including Zac Posen, Cynthia Rowley, Proenza Schouler, and Narcisco Rodriguez, to create Folly-inspired looks for the September 3 event. Afterward, guests will head over to NeueHouse for an after-party.

Dom Pérignon Celebrates Iris van Herpen
That same evening, Dom Pérignon will bus over and sail the fashion and art crowd to Brooklyn’s Pioneer Works to celebrate its latest collaboration—a limited-edition bottle designed by Dutch fashion designer and Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture member Iris van Herpen, who is also designing a sculpture she created to mark the partnership. Expected guests include artists Daniel Arsham and James Nares, fashion scholar Valerie Steele, and fashion progenies Julia Restoin Roitfeld and Lola Rykiel.

Killer Heels on Display
Those who have recently become comfortable with normcore flats, beware! The Brooklyn Museum exhibition Killer Heels: The Art of the High-Heeled Shoe will open its footwear survey, featuring designs by Chanel, Manolo Blahnik, and Alexander McQueen, with a VIP soiree on September 6 that includes a live voguing performance by artist Rashaad Newsome, Kevin Jz Prodigy, Cakes Da Killa, and a slew of Statements.

FRANK151‘s Next Chapter
The next night, on September 7, cult quarterly FRANK151 will unveil its DKNY-inspired issue at the new iteration of the legendary Lower East Side bar Max Fish, featuring 13th Witness, A$AP Illz, Big Steve, Brandee Brown, Debi Mazar, Donna Karan, Dorith Mous, Harif Guzman, Jarlos, Kembra, Maripol, Mike Bailey Gates, Nemo Librizzi, Peter Arnell, Ricky Powell, Serge Becker, Soo Joo Park, Ulli Rimkus, and this cool illustrated guide to NYFW etiquette by Kevin Lyons.

Art-a-Porter: 48 Hours of Live Art
From September 7 through September 11, nightlife icon Susanne Bartsch will launch Art-a-Porter as part of her bARTsch in Fashion Series. Located in Times Square, performance artists will partake in 48 hours of live art happenings, like a surrealist picnic in a glass box.

Gareth Pugh Premieres in New York
On September 4, Gareth Pugh will premiere his Spring 2015 collection at Pier 36 in what is sure to be a mind-blowing event for Lexus Design Disrupted. Event producer Legs Media called on artist Daniel Wurtzel, artist Matthew Stone, and Royal Ballet resident choreographer Wayne McGregor to create an interactive installation where guests will be able to view Pugh’s pieces as models and dancers perform throughout the space.

Models Never Talk
Back in the 1950s, French couturiers would arrive in the Big Apple with their collections and models. Curator and Musée Galliera director Olivier Saillard will continue that tradition in a different way: by bringing seven models—Anne Rohart, Charlotte Flossaut, Axelle Doué, Christine Bergstrom, Claudia Huidobro, Amalia Vairelli, and Violeta Sanchez—to Milk Studios on September 8 so that they can reveal their memories in a performance called Models Never Talk, as part of Crossing the Line, the French Institute Alliance Française Fall FSTVL.

Yigal Azrouël and Nir Hod in Conversation
The following day, on September 9, Israeli artist Nir Hod, who has an upcoming exhibition at Paul Kasmin Gallery, and his friend, Israeli fashion designer Yigal Azrouël, will wind down the fashion-meets-art festivities during New York fashion week by discussing each of their worlds with, and their relationship to, the human form during a conversation at the members-only creative space NeueHouse. —Ann Binlot

Photo: Courtesy Dover Street Market; Courtesy Dom Pérignon, Courtesy Gareth Pugh

The Next Big Thing: Charles Youssef

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 21:02

Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks off, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.
Label: Charles Youssef

Need to know: An alumnus of both Parsons (BFA) and Central Saint Martins (MA)—Lady Gaga purchased three pieces from his graduate collection after seeing it on the catwalk at London fashion week in February 2010—Charles Youssef has done time in senior designer roles at Calvin Klein, Gareth Pugh, Cerutti, and Ralph Lauren. A diverse résumé, to be sure, but that breadth of experience helped Youssef develop ideas that are very much his own. Resort 2015—his first official collection since Saint Martins—was a study in origami, establishing his obsession with geometry as well as classic couture techniques. A long-sleeved shift dress, for instance, was decorated with chevron folds at the neckline and waist, details that create subtle, figure-favorable shadows. “My silhouette is directly inspired by paper fortune-teller games,” he said. “The concept of gleaning insight into the future is a feeling I hope to capture in my work.” For his Spring 2015 New York fashion week debut, the Lebanese-born designer was thinking of the “recessed lighting of architecture,” he said. “The overall look is angular and glows from underneath, similar to sections of the MoMA and the work of James Turrell.”

Find him on: Twitter (@Charles_Youssef) and Instagram (@charlesyoussef).

—Lauren Sherman

EXCLUSIVE: Daria, Binx, Edie, and More Cover Document Journal’s Second Anniversary Issue

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 19:32

In honor of its second birthday, Document Journal, the fashion, art, and culture publication that hangs its hat on elevating the conversation surrounding beauty, has recruited a dream team of models, artists, and photographers for six covers and fashion stories. “For this issue we wanted to ask questions,” states the Editors’ Letter written by co-editors in chief/creative directors Nick Vogelson and James Valeri. “In an era when everyone seems to be looking for answers, we feel the real attention should be focused on questions, a seed for our consciousness.” For that task Document went to the artist Gregg Bordowitz—specifically, these questions excerpted from his book Volition, which function as the jumping-off point for the issue’s fashion features:

What does it mean to be an artist in the 21st century?

What does anything mean now if nothing means anything at all?
Does nothing mean anything at all?

How can anything mean something as reflection without being?
Is it possible to become reflection without being?

How does the question of being possess urgency at the moment?

Here, an exclusive look at all six of the covers of the issue, which launches during Paris fashion week. —Noah Johnson


Daria by Richard Prince, styling by James Valeri


Stella Tennant by Mario Testino, artwork by Isa Genzken


Saskia by Collier Schorr, styling by James Valeri


Raquel by Fabien Baron, hair by Guido, styling by Jay Massacret


Binx by Roe Ethridge, styling by Robbie Spencer


Edie by Richard Bush, styling by Sarah Richardson

Nellie Partow Sexes-Up the Sweater

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 18:07

From Céline and Stella McCartney to Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors, sweaters were the stars of the Fall runways. The Spring collections, which began unofficially in New York yesterday, present a particular challenge to knitwear makers. How do you inject the ease and comfort of a chunky crewneck, for example, into something you can wear when the thermostat tops 70, even 80 degrees? Nellie Partow, an up-and-coming New York designer who has made knitwear one of the focal points of her collection, has come up with a novel solution. Her sweaters, which are all handmade in New York and take upwards of two weeks to produce, feature provocative cutouts in back. The one pictured here was made from breathable metallic rose-gold tape yarn—and you won’t find a sexier sweater anywhere else. A sexy sweater? That’s an achievement. Another reason to keep your eye on Partow: She’s opted out of New York fashion week in favor of one-on-ones. “With over 300 shows in New York alone this September, I felt it would be more impactful to showcase my collection by appointment only,” she tells Style.com. “I’ve learned from my clientele that it’s more intimate and personal connecting one-on-one, which the traditional runway/presentation format doesn’t allow. There’s also a significant amount of money that goes into producing a show. I’ve used those finances to further explore new techniques and technology in product development, which is fundamental to the continued evolution of any brand.” Interested parties can track her down via her e-commerce site, nelliepartow.com. —Nicole Phelps

Photo: Courtesy Photo

The Next Big Thing: Sandy Liang

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 17:15

Everyone knows their Marcs from their Calvins. But as fashion month kicks off, we’ll be spotlighting the up-and-coming designers and indie brands whose names you’ll want to remember.


Label: Sandy Liang

Need to know: For Sandy Liang, it started with fur. As a student at Parsons, she entered a design competition sponsored by Saga Furs, and the result was the Margot coat, a confectionary mink number reminiscent of Wes Anderson’s sullen Tenenbaum, but for its use of bubblegum pink. For her sophomore effort, Liang (who graduated just last year) opted to forgo much of the fur—Lord knows it doesn’t sell itself in the warmer months—but has still served up a collection informed by outerwear. “How do I go shopping? What do I buy when I walk into a store? For T-shirts and jeans, I’ll wear the same thing over and over again,” offered Liang, “but for a bag or a jacket or shoes, I will go that extra mile. There’s just so much longevity to them.” For Spring she proposes a wine-colored suede trench with moto accents. On the other end of the spectrum is an exquisite ’90s-leaning powder blue satin coat dappled with embroidered pansies and a Mongolian lambskin bolero in the same shade. Cheekiness is one of the New York-bred designer’s strong suits. Here she’s studded some of her tops with nipple rings straight off St. Marks place (though Liang’s come with a Swarovski pedigree) in the anatomically appropriate spots. Frayed, über-light-wash denim is likewise decked out with sets of spangly “earrings,” and Liang’s take on the Perfecto boasts a dusting of delicate flowers—and itty-bitty BIC lighters to match. Her penchant for contrasts (high/low, frilly/sporty, baby doll/badass) is one that Liang attributes to her downtown upbringing, and the combination would seem to be one that’s working for her: She counts both Kate Foley and catwalker Soo Joo Park among her devotees.

She says: “I’m still finding myself, I’m still figuring out what I like, what I don’t like, who I want my girl to be. I think she already exists—she’s you, she’s me, she’s just this girl who likes clothes, but it’s not her entire life.”

Where to find it: Alothman, Tsum, Start London, Edit 67 —Kristin Anderson

Photos: Courtesy Photos

Make It Work! Roland Mouret to Star in French Project Runway

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 16:52

Hot on the heels of his Banana Republic collab, designer Roland Mouret, the man who invented the “Galaxy” dress, has a lot of plates in the air. The London-based designer is busy readying his first New York store for an October opening, but in the meantime, he’s hitting the small screen big-time back home in France. The six-episode Gallic iteration of Project Runway is expected to debut later this month and will culminate with a runway show at the end of Paris fashion week. Mouret spoke exclusively with Style.com about his latest turn in front of the camera, his fellow jurors (Catherine Baba among them), and how he’s settling into the role of “the French Michael Kors.” — Tina Isaac-Goizé

What’s Project Runway going to be called in France?
Projet Fashion—that’s because most French people don’t really know what runway means. I was surprised by the project because it’s not in the French mentality. This kind of fashion and TV with mass appeal is not necessarily something the Paris fashion world would embrace. Some fashion people shied away from [appearing in] it, not least because it was shot over the summer. But I love popular culture. It’s something I’m eager to understand.

How’s it coming together?
It’s really, really exciting. We’re having great fun. The season is shorter than the American one, so moving from one challenge to the next is quite extreme. The jury makes a great team. Luckily I’ve been told I do OK on TV, but I won’t tell you how much makeup I’m wearing!

Who is on the jury?
[Journalist, editor, consultant, and art/fashion-world figure] Alexandra Senes, Catherine Baba, plus a guest juror every time. We’ve already filmed with Barbara Bui and Kappauf.

What is the jury’s chemistry like?
Catherine is really the show’s anchor—not only is she a style icon, but her knowledge of fashion is just amazing. She speaks her own language; it’s her own French-slash-Catherine Baba lexicon. I really love Catherine, and I think the French audience will love her, too. And Alexandra is really sharp because she has a sense of what the French fashion press stands for and what French fashion is all about. We don’t always agree, but we have a good time volleying back and forth.

Where are the candidates from?
We have really, really good contestants. Most of them are French, but they’re from all over the place, and there are a few Northern Europeans. They’re all fashion school graduates who’ve been out two or three years, and they are all very aware of the exposure that a show like this brings. It’s great to see French candidates who have no problem with [the intersection of] fashion and TV.

What can you tell us about the designers?
There were some amazing surprises in the group—I was really impressed by the level of work they’re doing. Some of them are
super-talented. Others sort of try to hide who they really are, but every week they’re forced to show a little more of themselves. For example, one was there to be a womenswear designer, but it became obvious he was meant to do menswear. I wouldn’t say it created drama, but it did generate excitement.

What do you think the show brings to the French fashion arena?
Coming from London, knowing how young people start there, it’s so nice to be back in Paris and see that sense of youth. Usually, you have to be so much more established [in Paris] before you even start. This program is giving a voice to young people in France, and that’s quite lovely to see, especially because of how things are now in France. It’s not about becoming a celebrity; it’s about becoming someone who must really work to make it all happen.

What’s different from the U.S. format?
Nothing except the length of the series. It’s going to wrap during Paris fashion week, at the Beaux-Arts. Three finalists will present their collections in a show on October 2; after it ends we’ll announce the winner.

What’s it like for you to play the “Michael Kors” part?
I’ve really enjoyed it, just being myself and trying to understand contestants’ weak points so they can move past them and succeed. I’m honest with them. But I’m really ruthless when they become self-indulgent. I can’t accept excuses or complaining. The only ones who stay are those who don’t complain, they just do their job.

What do the winners take home?
There’s a cash prize of about 30,000 euros and they get the support of the Chambre Syndicale. The show creates such bonds, and, of course, I will stay in touch with them and be there if anyone would like some mentoring. Fashion can be so amazing are when you pass along knowledge.

Are you thinking ahead to season two?
That’s for the audience to decide!

Photo: Indigital Images

Upstate Gives Courtshop Denim a Little Color

Wed, 09/03/2014 - 16:40

“We both love Courtshop,” gushed designers Kalen Kaminski and Astrid Chastka, the duo behind the four-year-old Brooklyn-based shibori collective Upstate. “We wear [Courtshop's] jeans almost every day while we dye, and we naturally get little flecks of dye, or even larger areas, on our jeans,” said the pair. “We actually started loving the look.”

The love was mutual, it turns out, and this summer, Kaminski and Chastka teamed up with Courtshop’s Nicole Tondre and Lisa Fuller to introduce a special Upstate-Courtshop capsule collection that launched on Yoox, Warm, and Bona Drag on August 30. The lineup features three classic Courtshop denim styles hand-dyed by Kaminski and Chastka: The boyfriend jean, Cleo, is simple save new tie-dyed patches the duo sewed on; the high-waisted skinny comes “in a super-stretchy white” with faded black tie-dye; and a classic fitted jean is modified with deep, ocean blue dye. “It all felt natural,” reflected Chastka. “It’s really about functional, wearable pieces. When we’re working, we just want freedom to move—real freedom of motion. We love the way the Courtshop jeans feel. We can do whatever we want in them and still be comfortable.”Courtshop’s Fuller offered, “It was really exciting for us to have someone give us some color and just kind of a take on our proven fit.”

The four women suggest that the collection may not be the last. “We’d love to do more collaborations with Courtshop in the future,” said Kaminski. Chastka added, “It’s the perfect match.”

Priced at $186, Courtshop x Upstate is now available at youreupstate.com. — Ashley Simpson

Photos: Courtesy Photos