Judging by the wares spotted on recent red carpets, like the sheer-paneled Antonio Berardi gown Gwyneth Paltrow donned to the Iron Man 3 premiere and the posterior-flashing Givenchy frock Ke$ha sported at last night’s Billboard awards, it would seem there’s a risqué trend afoot. And it’s spilling over onto the Resort ’14 runways, but with a ladylike twist. Chanel, J.W. Anderson’s Versus Versace, and Christian Dior each offered examples of flowery, diaphanous lace. Karl Lagerfeld opted for subtle applications, namely with a bra-revealing blouse shown under a matching blazer, while Raf Simons went full monty-ette, splitting one dress with a mint-colored, neck-to-knee filigree. Anderson offset the neon pink of a slash-away skirt with a hip-high black-lace inset. Needless to say, it left little to the imagination—save what one would possibly wear underneath.—Nick Remsen Photos: Yoshi Okamoto (Chanel); Yannis Valmos/ GoRunway (Dior); Jonas Gustavsson/ GoRunway (Versus Versace)
Have you ever urgently needed a Lanvin frock at 2 a.m.? What about a pair of Nicholas Kirkwood pumps. No? Even so, we bet guests at The Mark hotel will find a host of reasons for late-night sartorial demands. Starting tomorrow, The Mark—the five-star Upper East Side lodging establishment favored by Carine Roitfeld, Russell Crowe, and Marc Jacobs, who decamped to the hotel during Sandy—will launch a partnership with Bergdorf Goodman. The union will solve any and all designer emergencies, providing guests with twenty-four-hour access to Bergdorf’s personal shoppers and, in some cases, after-hours admission to the store itself. “We make the impossible possible,” the hotel’s chief concierge, Isabelle Hogan, told Style.com. Hard-to-get items will also be readily available—for instance, if, say, a new Céline bag hits shelves in the morning, The Mark will give Todd Okerstrom—Bergdorf’s head of personal shopping—a call, and you can have it sitting on your bed by lunchtime. Delivery is, of course, complimentary.
The Mark hotel is located at 25 East 77th Street, New York, NY 10075.—Katharine K. Zarrella Illustration: Jean-Phillipe Delhomme
The CFDA Fashion Awards are set for June 3 (tune in the following morning to watch the exclusive broadcast here, on Style.com), and to introduce the designers nominated for the 2013 Swarovski Awards, the crystal house has created a trio of films. In the weeks leading up to the ceremony, we’ll be debuting the shorts. Next up are the nominees for Swarovski’s Award for Accessory Design. Get better acquainted with Irene Neuwirth, Pamela Love,
and Jennifer Meyer, above.
Ferragamo’s The Amazing Shoemaker—an exhibition that explores shoes’ starring roles in stories throughout history—is on view at the Ferragamo Museum in Florence until March 31 of next year. But for those of us who can’t scoot over to Italy for the action, the house is bringing a taste of whimsy to New York. The museum show includes contemporary pieces inspired by such stories as Cinderella and The Wizard of Oz, classical works, short films, and new fairy tales by the likes of Hamid Ziarati, Michele Mari, and Elisa Biagini. However, one can’t really talk about narrative-stealing kicks without mentioning Hermes’ winged sandals—the mythical accessories appear in the exhibition in the form of Giambologna’s sixteenth-century sculpture Mercurio. And in honor of the ancient god’s divine taste in footwear, Ferragamo has released a pair of winged calfskin sandals, which debut exclusively above. Available from May 22 through June 2, the wares are part of a larger capsule, comprising a series of story-inspired heels and tote bags, as well as a selection of silk scarves. Designed by artist Michela Petoletti, each foulard is printed with watercolors depicting scenes from shoe-centric fables.
From Wednesday, the house’s Fifth Avenue flagship will also offer signed copies of Frank Espinosa’s limited-edition graphic novel based on Mr. Ferragamo’s life (above). Proceeds from the sales will be donated to Un Cuore, Un Mondo, a nonprofit organization that provides aid to children suffering from heart disease.—Katharine K. Zarrella Photo: Courtesy of Ferragamo
By now, it’s been established that New York-based Hood by Air has become a cult favorite. And, considering his smorgasbord of upcoming projects, founder and designer Shayne Oliver has proven that the streetwear line is no fleeting niche sensation. Last weekend, Hood by Air launched Morph—a conceptual pop-up in L.A.’s Scion AV Installation space that marked the brand’s West Coast retail debut. The shop’s Saturday opening—which was attended by diehard HBA fan, and the star of Oliver’s Fall ’13 show, A$AP Rocky—doubled as the launch of an eight-piece made-to-order luggage capsule. Running between $800 to $2,500, the range includes a black leather backpack with clever ball-and-chain detailing and a skeletal fetish-inspired latex hiking bag (left). “It’s subversive luxury luggage,” Oliver told Style.com. “The line has to do with me playing more with the actual realm of luxury. With these bags, I’m confronting that sense head-on and feeling things out for myself.”
The travel accessories are just one facet of Hood by Air’s expansion beyond its signature “ghetto goth” sweatshirts and tees. On June 16, an HBA knitwear capsule will land at Selfridges department store in London. The unveiling of a denim line at New York’s Milk Studios will follow in September. And during the Spring ’14 Paris shows, Oliver will introduce suits and jackets as part of the label’s move into formal menswear. No doubt, big things are happening for the 25-year-old designer, who launched HBA in 2006. But the talent is humbled by his growing fan base’s veritable obsession with the label. “I take it as a nod to what I’m doing,” he said. “I’m just building an aesthetic, and a brand, and a place for myself in fashion. I don’t quite know how to take it, because I’m shy. I just see it as gratitude.”
Hood by Air’s Morph will be open through June 16 at the Scion AV Installation space, 7667 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles, CA 90046.—Azadeh Ensha Photo: Aleks Kocev /BFAnyc.com
Antonio Azzuolo, whose namesake label in New York has occupied a small but sought-out spot on the American menswear landscape, now has a bigger platform to call his own. The Canadian-born designer has been named creative director for menswear, womenswear, and accessories at the Milanese label Giuliano Fujiwara. (This marks his first official womenswear collection, though he has designed for women privately under the auspices of his own line, which he will continue to design in addition to Fujiwara.)
The heyday of Fujiwara came in the late eighties and early nineties, when the designer capitalized on the nascent trend for minimalism and architectural shapes. (Fujiwara himself debuted the line on the Milanese runway in 1986; between then and now, it has been designed by Masataka Matsumura and, more recently, Sergio Daricello.) “Giuliano Fujiwara was one of the few brands that I noticed when I moved to Milan right after school, and the aesthetics were so subtle and beautiful,” Azzuolo said. “I still remember the store’s displays so vividly. Along with Romeo Gigli, it was a great inspiration for me.”
Azzuolo’s first collection for Fujiwara will be shown in Italy this June, playing on iconic menswear styles and the idea of a global nomad, incorporating influences from the U.S., Japan, and France, as well as its native Italy. “I think it is important to keep this legacy alive but not duplicate it,” Azzuolo said. “We are at a different time. I think what’s important is to have a strong vision on what is relevant today in the world and community we will live in.” Above, Azzuolo shares a preview sketch from his first collections for women and for men.—Matthew Schneier Photo: Illustrations: Courtesy of Giuliano Fujiwara
Aside from maybe a tiara, nothing heightens the glamour of a full-on evening look quite like a pair of gloves. Eye-catching gauntlets turned up on the Lanvin, Gucci, and Oscar de la Renta Fall runways. And at last week’s high-wattage Met Gala, divas from Madonna to Beyoncé to Paloma Faith covered up their digits with statement-making pairs of varying lengths. Kim Kardashian’s custom Givenchy number was the talk of the town, but what really piqued our interest was the gown’s built-in gloves, which prompted speculation that Kim was concealing an engagement ring (you know Kanye would go all out with a rock for his baby mama).
Last night, Architizer—an online architecture network for professionals and dabblers alike—hosted its inaugural A+ Awards gala at New York City’s Cedar Lake. And, according to the site’s CEO Marc Kushner, the event not only aimed to honor talents like Richard Meier, who won the lifetime achievement award, but also to make architecture more approachable for those in other creative realms. “We designed an event to help break architecture out of the echo chamber, so that other people can jump in and relate to it,” Kushner told Style.com. Last night’s accolades honored a total of eighty-seven buildings in more than fifty two categories—including Jaklitsch/Gardner’s cubic Marc Jacobs flagship in Tokyo and THEVERYMANY’s Louis Vuitton x Yayoi Kusama pop-up store at Selfridges in London.
“What they do is really amazing—it’s a great resource,” said attendee Joseph Altuzarra, one of many fashion designers present (Thom Browne and Yigal Azrouël also stopped by). Altuzarra offered that he has his own unique tie to architecture. “We have this factory in the north of France that does jersey—it was designed by Le Corbusier. Everything was done so carefully, it’s really beautiful.”—Nick Remsen Photo: Matteo Prandoni/BFAnyc.com
As one of the leading retail destinations in Los Angeles, TenOverSix—founded by Kristen Lee and Brady Cunningham—has garnered a cult following with its tightly edited mix of designers (think Jesse Kamm, Jenni Kayne, THVM, Alasdair, Maison Kitsuné, and beyond). Now, Lee and Cunningham have brought their cleverly cool curation to the Lone Star state, selecting Dallas’ recently renovated Joule Hotel for the location of their second outpost. Mimicking the L.A. store’s eclectic white-and-wood interior, the more-than-550-square-foot Dallas boutique is filled with an ample array of wares by up-and-coming designers, established indie labels, and high-profile brands. With the Dallas set in mind, Lee and Cunningham have stocked a ready supply of cocktail dresses and filled their Lucite display boxes with both subtle and statement jewelry from the likes of Mociun, Lizzie Fortunato, and Pamela Love. Staying true to their signature edit, the pair has made sure to bring along their best-selling stock of Karen Walker, Vena Cava, and Rachel Comey, as well as pieces exclusive to the new location.
In addition to the main store, Lee and Cunningham have created TenOverSix Presents—an updated take on a hotel gift shop, which, set in the Joule’s lobby, offers a quirky mix of gifts, accessories, and essentials. Only at TenOverSix can one find toothbrushes, a birdcage necklace, and a pig-shaped fruit basket all in the same place.
TenOverSix is open now at the Joule Hotel, located at 1511 Commerce St. Dallas, TX 75202—Alexis Brunswick Photo: Courtesy of TenOverSix
From the Keith Haring installation to a giant Barbie display to entire worlds created by Tim Walker, Gilbert & George, Chanel, and Lanvin, the windows of Rei Kawakubo’s London concept boutique Dover Street Market (which is slotted to open in New York later this year) have become somewhat of an institution. So when the storefront is lent to a young designer, it’s a veritable rite of passage. Earlier this year, rising star Simone Rocha built an Irish wilderness behind Dover Street’s glass facade. And today, Phoebe English—a 27-year old Central Saint Martins graduate who won the coveted L’Oréal Professional award upon her graduation in 2011—takes the stage, mounting her first project for the shop. “They were my first stockist,” said English, who’s now been selling at Dover Street for four seasons. “We’ve been working on this for a long time. And it’s been very challenging because it’s such a different thing than putting together a collection.”
English has a penchant for combining unexpected materials in her wares—synthetic hair and strips of rubber, for example. So naturally, her installation, a giant, ethereal icy-blue orb that combines shreds of fabric and glass beads from her Spring ’13 collection (above, left), follows suit. “It’s a bit of a play on contradiction. I liked that the solidity of the sphere contrasted against the irregular textiles and beads,” she explained, noting that her sculpture had an intergalactic inspiration (“I quite like planets and stars,” she giggled). As for why she decided to forgo a clothing-based display, English offered, “I felt that it would be too literal. Dover Street is such a creative garment-based space already, and it felt right to push my creative thought in a new direction.” English’s windows will be on view through May 29, and her Spring ’13 collection is available now at Dover Street Market’s London boutique.—Katharine K. Zarrella Photo: Courtesy of Phoebe English (Spring ’13 collection and interior image); Courtesy of Dover Street Market (installation exterior)
Acne Studios has rarely met an out-of-the-box idea it hasn’t liked. So though for most labels, publishing its own limited-edition collection of rodeo-rider portraits from a mid-century physique photographer wouldn’t be the first order of business, here it is. And so last night, with its usual clutch of models in tow—Hanne Gaby Odiele, Jacquelyn Jablonski, Ji Hye Park, et al.—Acne launched Rodeo, a hardbound book of photos from the collection of New Yorker critic Vince Aletti. Must be something in the air lately. As Hedi Slimane’s latest editorial suggested: Cowboys—they’re a thing.
Bruce of Los Angeles, little-known except among physique-photo aficionados, has nevertheless been influential among later photographers. Aletti traced elements of his style in the work of Mapplethorpe, Herb Ritts, and Bruce Weber. (The similarities were in some cases so striking, you could probably have bylined the book Bruce of Los Weber.) “It’s clear that he’s looked at it and had some appreciation of this period of work,” Aletti said between tête-à-têtes with Fran Lebowitz last night. “And I’d imagine he knows [of] some other photographer named Bruce.”
Unlike much of the photographer’s oeuvre, these rodeo shots are naturalistic, of real guys (rather than models) in their own clothes (rather than nude). Of course, exceptions apply. In any case, Acne took the opportunity to create a little capsule collection of clothes around them, too, for those who prefer to wear, rather than page through, their vintage beefcake. There are T-shirts, glammy cowboy boots stitched with appliqués of cowboys, and the traffic-stopping shirt modeled last night by the label’s Louise du Toit, available at Acne shops now.—Matthew Schneier Photo: Courtesy of Acne
For Louise Trotter, creative director of Joseph, releasing a handbag collection was always a matter of “when,” not “if.” With a little technical help from accessories designer Katie Hillier, Trotter has now made her vision a reality. The bags, which hit stores on Monday, are composed of a single piece of bonded cowhide mixed with side panels made from butter-soft napa leather. Devoid of any visible stitching, each bag appears seamless and malleable. “When I design for Joseph, I always look at how much I can take off,” Trotter told Style.com.
Trotter’s focus has been on ready-to-wear since joining the London-based brand four years ago. And, with the exception of a playful zebra print and a few splashes of color, the bags mirror the tailored sensibility and neutral palette of Joseph’s Fall ’13 line. “The bags aren’t really a diversion, as much as an extension of what I’ve been working on [in ready-to-wear],” said Trotter.
The collection features totes, shoulder bags, clutches, and handbags, all in soft-edged square shapes. Retailing for between $265 and $1,695, there’s no doubt the bags will appeal to Joseph devotees seeking luxury essentials. As for her style of choice, Trotter opts for the shoulder bag, which she likes to wear as a clutch with the strap dangling down. “It’s how you carry it, and your attitude, that changes it from day to evening,” she said.
In gritty 1980s London, John Galliano was wrapping up his studies at Central Saint Martins, Leigh Bowery was hosting pansexual club nights, and Nick Logan launched The Face. It was a time of unencumbered experimentation—sartorial and otherwise. And it was during this era that stylist Ray Petri—the man responsible for the anti-glam Buffalo movement—emerged on the scene. Petri (formerly Petrie) laid the bricks for the eclectic British fashion scene of today. His editorials, which set the tone in magazines such as Arena, i-D, and the above-mentioned The Face, pictured rough London teens in unexpected combinations of high fashion, tough workwear, athletic clothes, underwear, vintage, and beyond. He created not only a look but an ideology that was universally recognizable. And now, the iconoclast—who died of AIDS in 1989—is getting a magazine named after him.
Founded by Zadrian Smith—a London-based writer, stylist, and producer who’s worked with such publications as Tank, Love, GQ Style and British Vogue—PETRI(E) Inventory 65 (the stylist would have turned 65 this year—published annually, the numbers will bump up accordingly) seeks to breathe new life into Petri’s legacy. Aiming to channel the man’s uncompromising, unfiltered vision, PETRI(E)’s editorial array extends far beyond fashion. The debut issue offers an ode to Petri by British Vogue’s Francesca Burns, a photo essay by Saiful Huq Omi that lenses the hope and strife within Bangladesh megalopolis, Dhaka (above), and an essay by Valerie Steele on her upcoming exhibition, Queer History. “I think there’s a vulnerability and honesty to each piece that I hope readers will appreciate,” Smith told Style.com. Also included is an editorial titled “Melody of Caged Birds,” (above, right) which, featuring Meadham Kirchhoff’s designs, serves as a visual antidote to the suppression of raw creative impulse. “Don’t get me wrong,” said Smith, “I know fashion is a business, but there needs to be a greater balance of business and creativity. At this rate, fashion will bleed itself of organic artistry.”
PETRI(E) Inventory 65 launches on May 20, and is available for preorder here.—Nick Remsen
Androgynous, seasonless, and timeless—these were the buzzwords in Richard Nicoll‘s mind when he was designing his capsule collection for UK retailer Matchesfashion.com. Available from May 22, the thirteen-piece line (which starts at $130) offers crisp, clean his and hers wares, like chino skirts and trousers in dusty blue and wine, color-blocked jersey tees, knobby angora knits, and slick minimal bomber jackets in navy, for women, and burgundy, for men. “I wanted to play on unisex signatures to create an efficient capsule wardrobe of versatile classics,” Nicoll told Style.com, noting that he focused on pieces that could be layered and worn in different combinations year-round. “The range is what I have been describing as the ‘Special Normal’—easy to wear…wardrobe [essentials],” he added. As is often the case with Nicoll’s designs, small, subtle details are key. For instance, a slim leather collar elevates a blue oxford shirt from staple to “special.” The collection debuts in a Nicoll-styled shoot (above, and below) exclusively on Style.com.—Katharine K. Zarrella
After more than twenty years helming brands such as Yigal Azrouël (where she was CEO) and Adam Lippes (where she’s currently the copresident), Donata Minelli Yirmiyahu is launching her own line. Dubbed STATEof_, the range consists of casual yet refined separates ideal for those moments when, as Minelli Yirmiyahu explained at a preview, “you don’t want to wear jeans and a T-shirt but also don’t want to be walking around in Lululemon.” The debut Resort ’14 lineup focuses on everyday staples with a luxurious twist, like an updated sweat suit done in ultra-lightweight ombré fleece and a cropped felt hoodie jacket with dolman sleeves. Other standout items here include a sculpted, bonded jersey parka, as well as easy crepe cargo pants and long-sleeve tees cut from silk charmeuse. Minelli Yirmiyahu approached the new venture “from more of a merchandising and sales perspective rather than a pure designer standpoint, so the hand feel of fabric is super important,” she said. Minelli Yirmiyahu kept the price point reasonable (pieces max out around $500), and that has contributed to key retailers’ early interest in STATEof_. Oh yeah, what’s with the name? “It’s a fill-in-the-blanks kind of title. I wanted to create a Mad Libs type of open dialogue, so the clothes stand for however you’re feeling at the moment.”
For more information, visit stateofinc.com.—Brittany Adams Photo: Courtesy of STATEof_
As the men’s shows approach, the London Collections: Men (which will run from June 16 to 18) seems to be gaining more steam. Today, Dolce & Gabbana announced that it will open its fourth London boutique with a bash on June 15. Additionally, after being invited to kick off the season by London Collections: Men chair and British GQ editor in chief Dylan Jones, the brand will show its Spring ’14 tailoring collection during the event. Dolce & Gabbana, whose designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana noted in a statement that British tailoring is part of the house’s DNA, join high-profile names such as Burberry Prorsum, Rag & Bone, Paul Smith, and Jimmy Choo in presenting in London for the first time this season Photo: Filippo Fior/ InDigital/ GoRunway
Coachella might have come and gone, but across the pond, festival season is just getting started. And if musical meet-ups such as Glastonbury and Lovebox are any indication, no one knows quite how to combine a muddy field, nonstop tunes, and bohemian threads like the English. In celebration of the Brits’ summer concert savvy, Topshop is releasing a full-fledged festival-themed collection. Available starting Friday, the sixteen-piece range pulled inspiration from Coachella veteran Kate Bosworth, who took some of the wares for a spin while in Indio last month. Topshop’s muse also showcases the line’s plaid shirt, denim cutoffs, and simple sundresses while dancing around the desert in a Michael Polish-lensed film titled The Road to Coachella. Ranging from $20 to $400, the capsule hits stores alongside a larger music-themed initiative, comprising Topshop playlists, an interactive worldwide festival guide on the brand’s Web site, and a series of secret international pop-up gigs featuring established and emerging artists alike. Watch the film’s debut (above) and take a first look at Topshop’s festival duds (below) here, exclusively on Style.com.
The Cannes Film Festival got underway today. It’s a fabulous time for red carpet watchers; actresses play it faster and looser in the South of France than they seem to anywhere else—see our Cannes Diary for proof. But the fashion will really heat up on May 23, when amfAR is hosting its 20th anniversary Cinema Against AIDS event. The centerpiece of this year’s gala will be Carine Roitfeld’s The Ultimate Gold Collection Fashion Show, which, as its name suggests, will showcase one-of-a-kind dresses and jewels all in gold. Here, an exclusive look at three of the pieces in the show—a Prada hourglass number worthy of Liz Taylor (above), bracelets by Wright & Teague, and an Anndra Neen clutch (below)–as depicted by one of fashion’s favorite illustrators Lula Herself. LoveGold.com will host a livestream of the runway show, and Roitfeld and her CR Fashion Book team are posting daily Instagram updates on #lovegoldcannes.
Eddie Borgo’s forte may be urban baubles with a bite, but having primarily worked with crystals and silver-, gunmetal-, and gold-plated metal since launching his eponymous range in 2008, it would seem the designer is embracing the even finer things in life—when it comes to materials, anyway. Tapped by Love Gold to create some one-of-a-kind pieces, Borgo has made his first foray into precious metals with a set of 18K gold cuffs. The wares are a decadent fusion of Borgo’s best-selling bracelets, including his cone bangles. Naturally, the designer’s got big plans for his new baubles’ debut—amfAR will be featuring the pieces in the Ultimate Gold Collection fashion show during its event in Cannes next week. —Marina Larroude
The Friends of the High Line’s spring benefit drew a colorful mélange of donors and supporters to Hudson River Park’s cavernous—but intimately candlelit—Pier 57 last night.
The evening celebrated the community-fueled organization that has overseen the transformation of an abandoned rail line into an immensely popular elevated urban park. Cofounders Robert Hammond and Joshua David traded hearty hugs and handshakes over gin gimlets and champagne before the crowd was ushered into a dining hall, which boasted garlands of snapshots from the High Line’s history.
As guests nibbled on green-market-fresh fare, presenters Diane von Furstenberg, Amanda Burden, and Chelsea Clinton heaped praise on the 1.4-mile stretch of greenery nestled high above Manhattan’s streets. “Wherever I go in the world, people talk to me about the High Line,” said von Furstenberg, who together with husband Barry Diller—also in attendance—has contributed more than $35 million to Friends of the High Line. “And why did the High Line happen? Because the dreamers wanted it.” One such dreamer is Ethan Hawke—a former Chelsea resident (he recently decamped to Brooklyn) and one of the evening’s honorees. “It’s always fascinating when someone makes something beautiful when they don’t have to,” he said. “They could have easily torn the High Line down, and instead, they made something wonderful for the city.” —Sarah ScirePhoto: Patrick McMullan